Silk fabric: hom, piav qhia, khoom thiab daim ntawv thov. Ntuj thiab dag dag
Silk fabric: hom, piav qhia, khoom thiab daim ntawv thov. Ntuj thiab dag dag
Anonim

Cov ntsiab lus niaj hnub ntawm kev muag khaub ncaws yog qhov sib txawv hauv lawv qhov sib txawv, cov txee tau ntim nrog cov khaub ncaws los ntawm ntau yam khoom, ob qho tib si ntuj thiab dag. Tab sis cov hauj lwm tseem ceeb, raws li ua ntej, yog nyob rau hauv txhob lo lo ntxhuav, siv rau zus tau tej cov ntau yam. Qhov tseeb no feem ntau yog vim cov khoom tshwj xeeb ntawm cov khoom.

Cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav tsis ncab lossis ntsws. Qhov saum npoo muaj lub ntsej muag qab ntxiag, uas, thaum raug tshav ntuj, shimmers nrog cov ntxoov ntxoo sib txawv thiab nyiam cov xim ntawm lwm tus. Thaum lub sij hawm ntxuav, cov khoom nqus dej ntau (yuav luag ib nrab ntawm nws qhov hnyav), tab sis qhov no tsis tiv thaiv nws los ntawm kev ziab sai sai. Ib qho khoom muaj txiaj ntsig tshwj xeeb ntawm txhob lo lo ntxhuav yog lub zog. Ua tsaug rau tag nrho cov khoom no, txhob lo lo ntxhuav tau txais kev hlub ntawm ntau tus neeg siv khoom.

Silk kuj muaj qhov tsis zoo tseem ceeb - tus nqi. Cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav kim kim kim heev rau ntau tus, tab sis txawm tias qhov no tau tswj hwm ua tsaug rau kev ua haujlwm thev naus laus zis, vim tias cov khoom lag luam tsim los ntawm cov khoom siv dag zog tau pib tshwm rau hauv khw muag khoom. Cov ntaub no kuj yognrov nrog cov neeg yuav khoom, txawm tias nws tsis muaj cov khoom zoo ib yam li ntuj.

Suav silk
Suav silk

Cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav yog ua los ntawm

Silk ntaub yog woven los ntawm ntuj, hluavtaws thiab dag xov. Qhov kawg ob qhov kev hloov pauv tuaj yeem ua rau muaj kev nyab xeeb rau ib pawg - tshuaj. Cov ntaub npuag yog tsim los ntawm cellulose nrog cov tshuaj impurities, nws muaj ntau yam zoo heev thiab tus nqi pheej yig.

Cov khoom siv ntuj tsim muaj cov plaub hau nyias, uas suav nrog siv quav ciab, rog thiab cov proteins. Silk fiber yog tsim los ntawm cov proteins fibroin thiab cov nplaum nplaum sericin. Dye thiab ntxhia cov ntsiab lus yog ib feem ntawm cov fibers. Cov khoom siv ntuj tsim, zoo li Suav txhob lo lo ntxhuav, belongs rau qeb ntawm cov khoom kim heev cov ntaub nrog cov npe loj ntawm cov khoom zoo uas nws cov khoom siv hluavtaws tsis muaj, xws li:

  1. Nyob hygroscopicity. Muaj peev xwm nqus tau cov dej noo ntau, tab sis tib lub sijhawm qhuav sai.
  2. Hypoallergenic. Cov khoom siv tsis nqus plua plav, tsis siv hluav taws xob, tsim nyog rau cov neeg muaj kev fab tshuaj, tiv thaiv kev sib kis ntawm cov kab mob thiab npog cov ntxhiab tsw phem.
  3. zoo thermoregulation. Hauv cov khaub ncaws txhob lo lo ntxhuav, tus neeg tuav lub cev qhov kub thiab txias nyob rau txhua qhov huab cua.
  4. Breathable thiab vapor permeable. Txawm tias muaj tseeb hais tias cov khoom uas ua los ntawm tej yam ntuj tso txhob lo lo ntxhuav ntaub muaj ib tug siab ceev, ntuj fibers zoo kawg nkaus dhau dej vapor thiab huab cua. Qhov no muab cov xwm txheej zoo tshaj plaws rau kev ua haujlwm.tib neeg lub cev.
  5. Hnav tsis kam thiab kav ntev. Silk fabric muaj lub neej ua haujlwm ntev yam tsis poob zoo. Nws tseem tiv taus acetic acid thiab cawv. Tsuas yog cov tshuaj muaj zog alkaline lossis cov kua qaub tuaj yeem ua mob rau cov lo lo ntxhuav, nrog rau kev raug tshav ntuj tas li.
  6. Hluav taws kub. Yog lawm, nws tsis tuaj yeem hais tias ntuj txhob lo lo ntxhuav tsis kub hnyiab, tab sis thaum lub txim taws tsoo cov ntaub, nws tsis taws, tab sis maj mam pib smolder, nthuav tawm cov ntxhiab tsw ntawm cov plaub hau ib ncig.

Qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub npuag

Nws yog kev tshawb fawb pom tias cov tshuaj muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm cov fibers zoo muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau tib neeg lub cev. Xav txog cov khoom ntawm cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav:

  1. Tshuaj mob pob qij txha.
  2. muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau kab mob plawv thiab tawv nqaij.
  3. Pab nrog kab mob khaub thuas thiab mob khaub thuas.
  4. Txhawb cov txheej txheem ntawm kev rov ua dua tshiab ntawm tes, yog li ua rau tib neeg lub neej ntev.
  5. Cov ntaub qhwv ntsej muag soothes tawv nqaij thiab txo qhov qhuav.
rayon
rayon

Silk npuag drapes zoo, ua rau nws zoo meej rau hnav khaub ncaws thiab ntaub. Lub folds yog txawm, thiab cov khoom yog lub teeb thiab airy.

Qhov txiaj ntsig tom ntej ntawm txhob lo lo ntxhuav yog nws cov xim ceev ceev. Cov khaub ncaws ua los ntawm cov ntaub no yuav tsis tso thaum ntxuav thiab yuav tsis stain. Cov khoom tuaj yeem qhuav hauv lub hnub yam tsis muaj kev ntshai tias nws yuav hlawv. Tab sis, txawm hais tias tau hais los saum no, nws yuav tsum nco ntsoov tias kev saib xyuas ntawm cov khoom siv lo lo ntxhuav yuav tsum raug xaiv hauvraws li nws cov ntaub thiab cov tsos (peb yuav tham txog lawv hauv qab no).

Qhov tsis zoo ntawm cov khoom siv dag zog

Txawm tias muaj ntau qhov zoo, cov khoom siv dag zog kuj muaj qhov tsis zoo:

  1. Qhov tsis zoo tseem ceeb suav nrog nws lub peev xwm los khaws hluav taws xob. Cov cuab yeej no ua rau cov neeg siv khoom tsis yooj yim thaum hnav, vim tias lub sijhawm tsis zoo tshaj plaws, hnav ris tsho lossis tiab tuaj yeem lo rau lub cev. Tab sis qhov teeb meem daws tau yooj yim heev - koj yuav tsum siv cov cuab yeej tshwj xeeb, tus neeg sawv cev antistatic. Cov khoom siv ntuj tsis muaj qhov teeb meem no.
  2. Cov ntaub nyuaj ua haujlwm nrog. Artificial silk yog zoo txiav thiab ironed, tab sis cov npoo ntawm cov khoom crumble hnyav. Yog li ntawd, ntau novice craftswomen tsis pheej hmoo coj nws mus ua hauj lwm. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov ntaub tau nce plam, yog li nws tseem nyuaj rau txiav qhov chaw.
  3. Koj tuaj yeem ua haujlwm nrog cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav nkaus xwb nrog cov koob tshwj xeeb (lawv nyias nyias). Nrog ib rab koob xaiv tsis raug, qhov txiav yuav nyob twj ywm ntawm cov ntsiab lus stitching.
  4. Cov ntaub qhwv ntsej muag ua rau cov stains ntawm cov khaub ncaws. Tsis zoo li cov khoom siv ntuj tsim uas npog cov stains thiab tsw, ntawm no, yog tias tus neeg tawm hws, stains yuav nyob twj ywm. Nws tuaj yeem nyuaj rau ntxuav lawv, stains tseem nyob ntawm tej yam txawm tias dej huv nkag mus. Nyob rau hauv cov txheej txheem ntawm ironing, nws tseem tsis tuaj yeem ntub cov ntaub, vim tias cov kab yuav nyob twj ywm, thiab cov khoom yuav tsum tau rov ua dua.
natural silk
natural silk

Nyob ntawm silk fabrics

Hauv kev tsim cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav, ntau txoj kev sivxaws. Qhov nrov tshaj plaws yog:

  1. Satin.
  2. Twill.
  3. Linen.
  4. xov xwm loj.

Qhov txawv ntawm txhua hom no yog qhov zoo nkauj sheen inherent hauv txhob lo lo ntxhuav.

Raws li qhov muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm cov fibers, cov ntaub tau muab faib ua cov muaj xov:

  1. Natural.
  2. Unnatural.
  3. Synthetic.
  4. Mixed.

Ntxim qab kawg. Cov ntaub ntawv sib xyaw tsis tas yuav suav nrog cov muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm ntuj thiab hluavtaws fibers. Cov canvas tuaj yeem suav nrog cov fibers tshwj xeeb, tab sis txawv hauv keeb kwm. Piv txwv li, nyob rau hauv xyoo tas los no, rau tailoring suits thiab dresses, cov ntaub ntawv yog feem ntau siv nyob rau hauv uas woolen thiab txhob lo lo ntxhuav fibers yog tov nyob rau hauv sib txawv proportions.

Cov pawg no, dhau los, raug faib rau kev ntxhib los mos:

  1. Crepe.
  2. Jacquard.
  3. Satin.
  4. Pib.

Thiab tom qab ntawd los ntawm kev faib ua pawg raws li lub hom phiaj ntawm cov ntaub:

  1. Ib qho kev taw qhia.
  2. Daim los ntawm daim (rau xaws napkins, tablecloths thiab bedspreads).
  3. Industrial.
  4. Jackets thiab raincoat fabric.
  5. Nyob zoo.
  6. Rau textile haberdashery.
  7. Npuag ntaub.
  8. Shirt.
  9. Khaub ncaws thiab blouse.
silk ntaub piav qhia
silk ntaub piav qhia

khoom siv crepe

Cov crepe hom txhob lo lo ntxhuav suav nrog cov ntaub uas tau tsim los ntawm txoj cai los yog sab laug crepe twist nyob rau hauv warp los yognrog kev pab ntawm ib tug os. Cov txheej txheem no tso cai rau koj los ua cov khoom ntxhib, nplua-grained nrog cov qauv txawb. Nws drapes zoo, stretches thiab muaj zoo elasticity. Cov txheej txheem no siv ob hom weave, nyob ntawm seb qhov yuav tsum tau ua rau cov zis - crepe lossis tag nrho crepe.

Hom ntau hom crepe fabrics suav nrog:

  1. Crepe chiffon yog cov ntaub qhwv lub ntsej muag, lub teeb yuag ua los ntawm ob lossis triple strands ntawm crepe.
  2. Georgette crepe yog cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav elegant, tsis yog pob tshab raws li yav dhau los tus neeg sawv cev ntawm crepe fabrics, ntxiv rau, nws yog ci dua, thiab muaj peb thiab plaub threads.
  3. Crepe pleated - ib daim ntaub nyias nyias, uas yog muab los ntawm crepe de chine lossis crepe georgette. Ib qho tshwj xeeb ntawm cov khoom siv no, raws li koj tuaj yeem twv los ntawm lub npe, yog qhov "wrinkled" nto, uas yog tau los ntawm kev siv cov xov xov nrog sib txawv crepe twists.

Semi-crepe khoom

Qhov ntau yam no feem ntau suav nrog crepe de chine thiab lub teeb silk. Semi-crepe fabrics yog raws li raw cov ntaub ntawv metaxa txhob lo lo ntxhuav, uas ntxiv ib tug glossy thov rau cov khoom, thiab vim yog siv linen weaving tshuab, cov qauv ntaub drapes zoo, acquires stability thiab elasticity. Cov khoom tsim los ntawm crepe de chine xyaum tsis wrinkle, yog li ntawd, lawv siv tau zoo heev.

Cov neeg sawv cev hauv qab no ntawm cov khoom siv ib nrab yog crepe satin thiab crepe satin. Cov lus piav qhia ntawm cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav tuaj yeem nthuav tawm hauv txoj kev no: lawv muaj qhov ntom ntomkev ntxhib los mos, hnyav, outwardly yuav luag tsis txawv ntawm ib leeg. Sab pem hauv ntej ntawm crepe satin thiab satin yog du, thiab sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm yog nplua-grained. Hauv kev tsim khoom, satin weaving nrog crepe torsion ntawm weft threads yog siv. Crepe satin thiab crepe satin yog siv los ua yuav luag txhua yam khoom: hnav txhua hnub, yav tsaus ntuj hnav, pw tsaug zog, curtains, runners, slipcovers thiab ntau dua.

Rep semi-crepe fabrics suav nrog crepe-maroquin nrog cov lus qhia twist ntawm cov xov ntawm lub hauv paus. Xws li cov ntaub yog cov tswv yim, ruaj khov, hnav tsis kam, muaj qhov ntxhib thiab embossed zoo nkauj. Cov khaub ncaws ua lag luam, xws li thiab ua koob tsheej outfits yog sewn los ntawm crepe maroquin.

Lwm tus neeg sawv cev ntawm rep weaving yog fideschin (ib qho txawv ntawm crepe de chine). Cov ntaub ntawv no muaj ib qho qauv qauv tshwj xeeb, vim tias cov transverse caws nyuj yog tsis muaj zog ntawm sab pem hauv ntej ntawm cov ntaub. Cov ntaub no yog siv rau tailoring, tshwj xeeb, curtains.

ntaub so ntswg
ntaub so ntswg

Satin silk fabrics txawv ntawm fiber ntau muaj nyob rau hauv cov hauv qab no:

  1. Viscose warp nrog acetate weft.
  2. Acetate warp nrog viscose weft.
  3. Nrog triacetate weft viscose puag.
  4. Nrog viscose weft triacetate puag.

Tag nrho satin subgroup ntawm txhob lo lo ntxhuav yog khi los ntawm tib lub zog, xws li cov ntaub zoo kawg nkaus smoothed ntawm cov ntaub thiab qhov nruab nrab ntom. Cov khoom yog tsim los ntawm linen, twill, satin los yog finely patternedtechnology ntawm twisting los ntawm metax nrog ib tug tsis muaj zog maj twist, uas tsis muab ib tug crepe nyhuv. Satin fabrics visually zoo li paj rwb ntaub, tab sis lawv yog softer thiab ci dua.

Satin subgroup ntawm txhob lo lo ntxhuav suav nrog:

  1. satin / satin / ntaub ntub dej. Cov no yog iridescent silk fabrics nrog satin twist, du thiab glossy ntawm sab xub ntiag thiab matte rau sab hauv. Cov ntaub no drape zoo.
  2. Silk fabric. Cov khoom ntawm qhov nruab nrab ntom nrog maj mam gloss thiab qhov tsawg tshaj plaws ntawm cov pob tshab. Nyob rau hauv tsos, cov khoom zoo ib yam li staple ntaub, tab sis xyaum tsis wrinkle.
  3. Muslin npuag. Nyias, tsis heev pob tshab silk ntaub nrog nruab nrab twist muslin threads. Lub canvas muaj qhov zoo nkauj zoo nkauj, tab sis kuj tseem muaj qhov rho tawm - qhov sib txawv ntawm cov xov.
  4. Chiffon. Nyias thiab airy khoom. Nws tuaj yeem ua tau yooj yim, thiab tseem muaj cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav nrog cov qauv. Feem ntau siv rau lub tsho thiab hnav khaub ncaws.
  5. Tsev, foulard. Ob daim ntawv yog tsim los ntawm linen twisting, yam ntxwv ntawm airiness thiab plasticity. Foulard yog cov khoom siv sib dua.

Cov ntaub ntub dej tuaj yeem muab faib ua ob peb hom:

  1. Dupon.
  2. Nyob zoo ib tsoom phooj ywg.
  3. Fi.

Txhua cov ntaub no muaj qhov sib txawv ntawm qhov ntom ntom thiab ci ntsa iab. Lawv siv los txiav cov khaub ncaws rau yav tsaus ntuj thiab cov ntaub pua tsev tshwj xeeb.

patterned silk ntaub
patterned silk ntaub

Jacquard fabrics

Cov duab kos rau pawg no yog qhov txawv ntawm qhov siabkho kom zoo nkauj. Jacquard weaving vim muaj ntau yam xim dhau los ntawm lub teeb mus rau tsaus tones ntxiv ntim rau hauv canvas. Thiab lub sheen inherent nyob rau hauv iridescent txhob lo lo ntxhuav ntaub nrog ib tug qauv visually muab lub nto nrog ib tug metallic nyhuv. Ntawm jacquard fabrics, muaj ntau yam qauv tuaj yeem pom: paj, ntau xim, geometric lossis ob-tone. Cov kev suav ntxiv yog siv los hais txog qhov sib txawv ntawm qhov kev sib tw thiab kev ntxhib los mos.

Nyob hauv pab pawg jacquard, kev sau ntawm cov ntaub tsis muaj ntau haiv neeg. Cov khoom siv tseem ceeb rau lawv cov khoom siv yog acetate thiab triacetate fiber. Jacquard fabrics muaj qhov ntom ntom ntom thiab yog qhov nyuaj heev rau qhov kov, qhov txiaj ntsig tseem ceeb ntawm cov khoom no yog tias nws tsis yog whimsical los saib xyuas. Scope ntawm daim ntawv thov - tailoring xws li thiab elegant khaub ncaws, theem costumes thiab textiles rau lub tsev.

Pile material

Pab pawg ntawm cov ntaub no muaj qib siab ntawm kev kho kom zoo nkauj thiab elegance. Nws yog qhov nyuaj heev rau kev ua hauj lwm nrog pawg ntaub, yog li ntawd, tailoring ntawm cov khoom yog nqa tawm tsuas yog los ntawm cov kws craftsmen nrog kev txawj ntse ntawm txiav cov qauv, ua seams thiab lwm yam.

yam uas muaj rau cov neeg hais plaub no tau txawv los ntawm qhov tseeb uas lawv muaj cov qauv ntom heev, ib qho qauv zoo tshaj plaws.

Pile fabrics suav nrog:

  1. Velvet rau xaws dresses. Khaub ncaws nrog ib tug nruam, ncaj tuab pawg thiab ib tug ruaj khov ntsug kev npaj. Feem ntau, cov khoom no yog tsim nyob rau hauv ib tug xim, tab sis nyob rau hauv tsawg zaus, koj yuav nrhiav tau cov qauv nrog ib tug luam qauv.
  2. Velorvelvet. Cov khoom ntom ntom nrog smoothed, me ntsis inclined viscose pawg, mus txog 2 hli siab. Cov ntaub no hnyav dua li siv rau xaws khaub ncaws.
  3. Nyob zoo ib tsoom phooj ywg sawv daws. Cov viscose pawg tsis nyob hauv lub vev xaib txuas ntxiv, tab sis tsuas yog hauv thaj chaw ywj pheej muab los ntawm tus qauv.

Qhov sib txawv ntawm cov khoom siv ntuj thiab cov analogues ntawm cov khoom tsim thiab hluavtaws

Nws tuaj yeem nyuaj heev kom paub qhov txawv ntawm cov ntaub ntuj tsim los ntawm cov khoom siv dag zog, uas tsis tuaj yeem hais txog cov ntaub hluavtaws uas tsis muaj nyob hauv cov xwm txheej, tab sis yog cov tshuaj lom neeg sib xyaw ua ke. Thaum xaiv cov khoom ua los ntawm cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav los yog cov khoom siv, nws tseem yuav tsum tau tso siab rau tus kheej txoj kev xav, uas tuaj yeem ua tsis tiav lossis teeb tsa kev ntsuas kub (uas tus neeg muag khoom tsis zoo li tso cai). Yuav paub qhov txawv cov ntaub ntawv li cas?

cov khoom ntawm silk ntaub
cov khoom ntawm silk ntaub

Yuav kom nkag siab yam nyob rau hauv pem hauv ntej ntawm koj, koj yuav tsum tau xyuam xim rau cov yam ntxwv hauv qab no:

  1. Cov khoom siv hluavtaws yog me ntsis txhav, muaj hluav taws xob zoo, tsis txhob ntsws lossis nqus dej. Externally, hluavtaws muaj overflows, lub ci ntsa iab ntawm uas yog ntau ci dua li ntawm tej yam ntuj tso txhob lo lo ntxhuav. Thaum kub hnyiab, cov xov yaj, cov txheej txheem yog nrog cov ntxhiab tsw ntawm cov yas hlawv.
  2. Cov ntaub qhwv ntsej muag tsis tshua muaj elastic thiab wrinkle ntau. Raws li lub cim thib ob, nws yooj yim heev los txiav txim siab yam khoom twg nyob rau hauv pem hauv ntej ntawm koj, rau qhov no nws yog txaus los nyem cov khoom nruj nreem nyob rau hauv koj lub nrig thiab tuav rau ob peb feeb, tom qab ntawd koj yuav tsum smooth nws thiab soj ntsuam cov tshwm sim. Ntawm cellulose webs uas tau dhau lawmcov txheej txheem mercerization kom tau txais ib lub ntuj radiance tawm ntshiab creases. Tsis tas li ntawd, rayon tuaj yeem kuaj xyuas los ntawm kev teeb tsa hluav taws rau cov xov. Nws yuav teeb nrog hluav taws kub nyhiab zoo li daim ntawv nrog nws cov ntxhiab tsw.
  3. Natural Suav txhob lo lo ntxhuav yog du thiab qab ntxiag rau qhov kov, thaum cov khoom siv rau tes, nws zoo li "ntws" los ntawm nws. Thaum nyob rau hauv kev sib cuag nrog daim tawv nqaij, txhob lo lo ntxhuav tsis ua rau tsis xis nyob, sai sai noj nyob rau hauv lub cev kub thiab tsim cov nyhuv ntawm ob daim tawv nqaij. Cov cuab yeej no tau piav qhia los ntawm qhov tseeb tias cov xov ntuj yog cov khoom pov tseg cov khoom ntawm cov kab, yog li lawv tsis raug tso tseg los ntawm daim tawv nqaij receptors. Yog hais tias ntuj txhob lo lo ntxhuav yog teem rau hluav taws, nws tsis hlawv, tab sis smolders, tso cov ntxhiab tsw ntawm burnt plaub hau los yog ntaub plaub nyob rau hauv tus txheej txheem. Tom qab kub hnyiab tawm, ib qho khoom qab zib tseem tshuav, uas tuaj yeem rub tau yooj yim nrog koj cov ntiv tes.

Pom zoo: