Plain weave: hom ntaub
Plain weave: hom ntaub
Anonim

Peb pog thiab yawm yij tau xaws lawv tus kheej khaub ncaws, thiab tuaj yeem qhia peb txog ntau yam ntaub. Lawv twb paub ntau yam txog cov ntaub ntawv twg nws yog qhov zoo dua los ua ib lub tsho los yog lub tsho los ntawm. Feem ntau ntawm cov poj niam nyob rau hnub ntawd tau ua txoj haujlwm zoo ntawm kev ua cov khoom siv hauv tsev: cov ntaub pua txaj, ntaub ntaub thiab ntaub pua rooj. Lawv tsis tsuas yog sewn tag nrho cov khoom siv hauv tsev, tab sis kuj dai kom zoo nkauj nrog paj ntaub thiab lwm yam khoom dai.

Kev mob siab rau kev xaws yog ib yam ntawm yav dhau los. Tam sim no txoj hauj lwm no tuaj yeem raug cais raws li kev nyiam ua - koj yuav ntsib nws tsis tshua muaj. Ob peb tus poj niam tuaj yeem tham txog yam ntaub ntawv uas lawv muaj nyob hauv lawv txhais tes.

dawb weave
dawb weave

Kev lag luam textile amazes fashionistas niaj hnub nrog ntau yam khoom tshiab. Fabrics tau dhau los ua high-tech thiab multifunctional. Txawm li cas los xij, lawv feem ntau yog raws li cov tswv yim thiab cov tswv yim tsim ib puas xyoo dhau los.

Plain weave yog dab tsi?

Plain weave yog ib qho ntawm cov qauv tseem ceeb ntawm fiber ntau ua ke. Nws yog nrog kev pab los ntawm cov txheej txheem textile no uas ntau hom ntaub yog tsim los ntawm ntau yam ntuj thiab hluavtaws fibers. Lwm hom weaves yog tau los ntawm ntau yam variations los yogkev sib txuas ntawm lawv hom tseem ceeb.

Qhov xwm txheej ntawm kev sib tsoo txiav txim siab tsis yog tsuas yog cov tsos ntawm cov ntaub, tab sis kuj nws cov yam ntxwv, lub cev thiab thev naus laus zis. Yuav kom nkag siab txog qhov teeb meem ntawm kev tsim cov ntaub, cia peb ua ntej txheeb xyuas cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov ntaub ntawv yooj yim.

Basic textile tswvyim

Cov xov ntev yog hu ua warp, thiab cov xov hla hla yog hu ua weft. Nyob rau hauv cov qauv ntawm cov ntaub, lawv yog intertwined thiab tsim ib tug sib tshooj, qhia nyob rau hauv weaving qauv los ntawm lub cim nF . Lub ntsiab hla nFO yog qhov chaw nyob rau pem hauv ntej ntawm cov ntaub nyob rau hauv uas warp fibers nyob rau saum lub weft. Nyob rau hauv lub weft overlap nFY daim duab rov qab yog pom. Ntawm no cov warp threads pw hauv qab cov xov weft.

Weaves hauv kev lag luam textile feem ntau txhais tau tias yog lub tswv yim, uas tau nthuav tawm hauv ob xim. Lub warp threads yog nyob rau hauv kab ntsug, thiab weft threads yog nyob rau hauv kab kab rov tav. Lawv tau teem rau hauv ib qho kev txiav txim thiab tsim ib lossis lwm hom kev hla. Cov xim tsaus nti yog siv los xaiv cov plag tsev loj, thiab xim xim - weft.

Muaj qee qhov kev txiav txim hauv schema parsing. Lub warp threads raug suav los ntawm sab laug mus rau sab xis, thiab cov xov weft yog suav los ntawm hauv qab mus rau saum. Hauv kev kos duab thiab nyeem cov tswv yim, lub tswv yim ntawm kev sib raug zoo R yog siv, qhov no qhia txog tus naj npawb ntawm kev sib tshooj ntawm weft thiab warp fibers, uas hloov pauv ntawm qee lub sijhawm. Cov ntaub ntawv sib dhos ua rau cov khoom tsim tau yooj yim thiab ncaj. Muaj kev sib koom tes ntawm kev sib tsoo ntawm cov xov hlau Ro thiab ntawm os RY.

Kuj nyob rau hauv kev sib sau ua ke ntawm weaving qauv muaj lub tswv yim ntawm kev hloov S. Lo lus no yog hais txog cov xov tooj ntawm cov xov uas ib qho sib tshooj yog tshem tawm ntawm ib qho zoo sib xws. Muaj kev hloov ntsug So ntawm warp thiab SY ntawm weft.

Plain weave ua li cas?

Plain weave, lub tswv yim uas yog qhov yooj yim tshaj plaws, yog tus cwj pwm los ntawm qhov kev txiav txim uas cov xov paj thiab warp sib cuam tshuam nrog txhua lwm yam hauv txhua qhov kev sib tshooj thib ob. Qhov no txhais tau hais tias nws muaj qhov tsawg tshaj plaws kev sib tham.

dawb weave qauv
dawb weave qauv

Yog li ntawd, nws ntseeg tau hais tias lub tiaj weave ntawm cov xov yog thawj qhov chaw ntawm txhua qhov kev hloov kho ntawm cov qauv weaving. Nws yog raws li cov cai no uas thawj cov ntaub ntawv tau ua los ntawm peb cov poj koob yawm txwv.

Muaj qee qhov kev sib tham uas qhia txog kev yooj yim. Nws cov tswv yim tau piav qhia hauv cov qauv:

  • RO=RY=2 strands;
  • FO=nFY=1;
  • SO=SY=1.

Cov ntaub qhwv ntsej muag, uas cov xov warp muaj cov tuab tuab dua li ntawm cov weft, yog hu ua cuav rep. Nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv no, ib tug transverse caws pliav yog tsim. Cov kws tshaj lij ntaus nqi nws mus rau ntau hom kev xaws hu ua weft reps. Raws li hom kev weaving, xws li cov ntaub ntawv xws li paj rwb taffeta thiab poplin yog tsim. Ib qho yooj yim plain weave ua lub hauv paus rau kev tsim ntau yam ntawm textileCov khoom lag luam raws li ntau yam khoom siv raw: paj rwb, linen, silk, wool thiab lwm qhov chaw fiber ntau.

paj rwb ntaub, nyob rau hauv uas lub weave yog tiaj, yog dav siv nyob rau hauv kev lag luam textile. Muaj ntau ntau hom textiles, uas tau tham txog ntau yam hauv qab no.

Nws tseem hu ua burmet lossis ntawv canvas. Cov ntaub no tuaj yeem ua rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm cov ntaub hnyav hnyav, nws tuaj yeem ua rau bleached (linen), dyed lossis luam tawm. Lub calico tuaj yeem muaj ob qho tib si paj rwb thiab cov fibers dag.

canvas ntaub
canvas ntaub

Canvas ntaub yog siv hauv kev lag luam niaj hnub textile hauv kev tsim cov ntaub pua tsev. Coarse calico muaj qhov hnav tsis zoo, tiv taus ntau qhov ntxhua. Canvas npuag muaj ntau yam zoo:

  • Kev tu cev zoo heev.
  • Hypoallergenic.
  • Sustainable.
  • Easy.
  • Nyob ntev kev khaws cia ntawm qhov ci ntawm daim duab.
  • Tus nqi pheej yig.

Nws yog cov khoom zoo no uas ua rau nws tuaj yeem tsim cov khoom zoo txhua hnub thiab khoom kim heev cov txaj pw los ntawm coarse calico.

Chintz

Hais txog cov ntaub paj rwb zoo nkauj thiab tuaj yeem ua xim dawb lossis luam tawm. Chintz yog tsim los ntawm calico los ntawm dyeing thiab tiav manipulations. Feem ntau qhov ntom ntawm cov ntaub no yog 80-100 g / m 2. Chintz yog siv hauv kev lag luam textile los ua cov ntaub pua txaj.ris tsho hauv qab, tsho rau cov txiv neej, nrog rau lub teeb outerwear.

Baptiste

Cov ntaub no tshwj xeeb yog nyias thiab translucent. Cov khoom siv raw rau kev tsim cov cambric yog ob qho tib si paj rwb thiab linen. Cov ntaub npuag dawb no yog tsim los ntawm cov fiber ntau twisted zoo tshaj plaws ntawm cov lej siab. Batiste tuaj yeem dyed, bleached, mercerized thiab luam tawm. Feem ntau cov khoom no yog siv rau xaws ris tsho hauv qab, lub teeb dresses los yog blouses. Batiste kuj yog ib qho khoom ua tiav rau kev tsim cov ntawv tracing.

Mitcal

Cov ntaub rugged dawb weave paj rwb ntaub yog tsim los ntawm ntxhib, tsis muaj fiber ntau. Feem ntau, calico muaj qee qhov greyish tint. Nws ua haujlwm raws li cov khoom lag luam semi-tiav rau kev tsim khoom ntawm lwm cov ntaub thiab cov ntaub ntawv. Yog tias cov mitcals tau ua tiav raws li qhov tsim nyog, ces koj tuaj yeem tau txais cov khoom siv linen (muslin, madapolam) lossis chintz. Tsis tas li ntawd, ntau yam oilcloths thiab leatherette yog tau los ntawm cov khoom siv raw.

Flannel

hom ntaub no tuaj yeem ua los ntawm cov paj rwb lossis ntaub plaub, lossis ob qho tib si ua ke. Flannel muaj ib qho tsis tshua muaj ob sab lossis ib sab fluffy bouffant thiab yog li txuag tau cua sov zoo. Nws yog mos thiab qab ntxiag rau qhov kov thiab tuaj yeem bleached, dyed lossis luam tawm.

dawb weave ntawm threads nyob rau hauv ntaub
dawb weave ntawm threads nyob rau hauv ntaub

Flannel muaj nws qhov tsis zoo: nws yob tawm thaum hnav rau lub sijhawm ntev thiab, vim nws qhov siab hygroscopicity, dries rau lub sijhawm ntev. Cov ntaub no zoo heev rau cov khaub ncaws demi-season thiab rau cov menyuam cov pawm.

Poplin

hom ntaub no yog ob sab, ib ximlos yog qauv. Poplin tsim ib qho yooj yim weave ntawm nyias warp thiab coarser, tsis tshua muaj ntoo khaub lig weft. Qhov tshwm sim yog ib qho caws pliav me me, uas yog tus cwj pwm los ntawm kev sib tw siab, uas yog 1.5-2 npaug siab dua li ntawm cov ntaub. Poplin tuaj yeem bleached, luam tawm, ntau xim lossis xim dawb. Nws muaj ntau qhov zoo:

  • Kaws nws cov duab zoo.
  • Nws qhov chaw zoo siab rau qhov kov.
  • Thermostatic thiab hygroscopic.
  • High hnav tsis kam.
  • Tus nqi pheej yig.

Vim cov khoom zoo no, poplin tau siv dav los tsim cov ntaub pua chaw pw, nrog rau cov txiv neej thiab poj niam lub tsho, phuam da dej thiab lwm yam khoom.

Taffeta

Cov ntaub no, uas siv cov ntaub qhwv yooj yim, nyias, ntom ntom, thiab muaj glossy tiav. Taffeta yog tsim los ntawm nruj nreem fibers, thiab tsis tsuas yog siv paj rwb, tab sis kuj txhob lo lo ntxhuav, raws li zoo raws li hluavtaws threads. Kev lig kev cai, hom ntaub no yog siv rau xaws yav tsaus ntuj thiab kab tshoob dresses, costumes rau kev sib tw gymnastics thiab ntau yam khoom siv.

Linen - cov ntaub yog tawv heev thiab ntom. Nws muaj ib tug du nto thiab matte tiav. Cov ntaub linen tsis ncab zoo, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog thaum ntub, nws cov fibers tsis cuam tshuam nrog ib leeg.

ntaub linen
ntaub linen

Cov khoom no tsis muaj kuab lom me ntsis, tsis tsim pawg thiab muaj hygroscopic heev. Linen yog ib daim ntaub uas zoo kawg nkaus txhawb lub ntuj sov dissipation.tib neeg lub cev thiab yog li ntawd zoo heev rau tailoring. Hauv kev lag luam textile, ntau hom ntaub yog tsim los ntawm cov khoom siv no siv txoj kev yooj yim weave:

  • Bolt - cov ntaub ntom ntom tsim los tsim cov khoom siv hauv ob sab hauv.
  • Canvas yog cov ntaub hnyav ua los ntawm cov xov paj tuab, uas muaj qhov tshwj xeeb ntom ntom. Nws repels ya raws thiab yog heev ruaj. Nws tau siv los tsim cov nkoj, nrog rau kev txiav cov khaub ncaws uas muaj dej thiab cov khaub ncaws tshwj xeeb. Yog hais tias cov ntaub no yog impregnated nrog fireproof, dej-repellent thiab antifungal compound, koj tau txais ib daim ntaub.
  • Linen yog ntaub linen du uas muaj qhov ci ntsa iab thiab siv los ua khaub ncaws thiab suits.

Silk yog ib yam khoom kim heev thiab muag heev. Nws tau ntev tau siv los kho cov chav dej ntawm cov neeg muaj koob meej. Tom qab ntawd, nrog kev tsim cov khoom siv dag zog, cov khaub ncaws ua los ntawm cov khoom siv no tau dhau los ua rau txhua tus. Nyob rau hauv kev tsim cov ntaub los ntawm ntuj thiab hluavtaws txhob lo lo ntxhuav, ib hom weave dawb kuj siv. Yeej, ntau yam crepes yog ua nyob rau hauv no txoj kev.

hom ntaub no yog tsim los ntawm cov fibers siab twist nyob rau sab laug thiab txoj cai nrog ib qho kev hloov pauv. Xws li kev ua ntawm threads muab lawv elasticity thiab muab ntxiv shrinkage ntawm teeb meem. Cov ntaub tau txais kev ntxhib los mos zoo nkauj.

dawb weave silk ntaub
dawb weave silk ntaub

Qhov txiaj ntsig tseem ceeb ntawm crepe fabrics yog lawv zoo heevdrape ua ke nrog me ntsis wrinkle, uas ua rau lawv zoo tagnrho rau yav tsaus ntuj dresses rau cov poj niam thiab cov txiv neej. Plain weave silk npuag tuaj nyob rau hauv hom hauv qab no:

  • Crepe de chine muaj qhov ci ntsa iab. Nws kuj yog nyias, tab sis tib lub sij hawm heev ntom. Crepe de chine yog tsim los ntawm silk fibers nyob rau hauv warp, thiab crepe torsion threads yog siv raws li weft. Woolen thiab polyester fibers kuj tuaj yeem siv rau hauv cov ntaub. Crepe de chine yog dav siv rau xaws yav tsaus ntuj thiab kab tshoob teeb.
  • Crepe-chiffon yog ib qho airy nyias translucent ntaub nrog cov qauv hais tawm. Nws tuaj yeem muaj ob qho tib si ntshiab txhob lo lo ntxhuav thiab hluavtaws xov. Crepe chiffon yog siv los ua lub caij ntuj sov khaub ncaws thiab accessories.
  • Georgette crepe yog qhov txawv tsis yog los ntawm nws qhov nyias nyias thiab pob tshab, tab sis kuj los ntawm nws cov elasticity. Qhov kev ntxhib los mos ntawm cov ntaub yog pronounced. Georgette crepe yog siv los xaws lub teeb chav dej, shawls thiab scarves.
  • Crepe-maroken yog qhov txawv ntawm qhov muaj cov xov sib tw uas muaj zog ntawm lub hauv paus. Nws muaj cov qauv zoo tshaj plaws thiab yog tsim los ntawm cov xov paj ntawm ntuj silk, viscose, thiab ntaub plaub. Moroquin crepe feem ntau yog siv rau cov khaub ncaws hnav.

Woolen threads kuj raug rau cov ntaub yooj yim los tsim cov ntaub nyias nyias, lub ntsiab ntawm cov ntaub. Cov ntaub no yog qhov tseem ceeb rau qhov tseeb tias ntawm nws qhov chaw cov xov yog li khob thiab intertwined tias txhua qhov khoob ntawm cov fibers sib tshooj.

dawb weave
dawb weave

Yog li, cov ntaub yuav zoo li xav. Wool ntaub los ntawm ob hom:

  • Tub rog yog tsim los ntawm kev ua raws li kev siv tshuab thiab siv los tsim cov khaub ncaws rau tub rog, nrog rau qee cov khaub ncaws ua haujlwm.
  • Nroog muaj qee qhov sib txawv ntawm kev siv tshuab. Nws yog softer thiab thinner, muaj ntau yam xim.

Cov ntaub nteg tau zoo thiab tsis txav thaum txiav, tsis tawg ntawm kev txiav, thiab tiv taus ironing zoo. Txawm li cas los xij, cov khoom siv no wrinkles nrog kev siv, yuav ntsws, thiab yuav tsis ntxuav.

Raws li koj tuaj yeem pom, lub tiaj tiaj ntawm cov xov hauv cov ntaub tau ua rau muaj ntau yam khoom tshwj xeeb thiab tsis zoo uas cov niam tsev niaj hnub siv los xaws khaub ncaws, ntaub pua chaw pw thiab lwm yam khoom siv hauv tsev. Ntau xyoo dhau los, lub sijhawm hloov pauv, tab sis ntau lub hauv paus tau muab los ntawm peb cov poj koob yawm txwv tseem muaj feem cuam tshuam rau niaj hnub no.

Pom zoo: