Khawm: keeb kwm ntawm qhov tshwm sim, hom, daim ntawv thov. Golden khawm. cov ntsiab lus ntawm khaub ncaws
Khawm: keeb kwm ntawm qhov tshwm sim, hom, daim ntawv thov. Golden khawm. cov ntsiab lus ntawm khaub ncaws
Anonim

Thaum mus ua haujlwm, kawm lossis taug kev txhua hnub, peb tsis cuam tshuam ntau qhov tseem ceeb rau cov nyees khawm ntawm peb cov khaub ncaws. Lawv tau dhau los ua ib qho kev paub thiab niaj hnub khoom siv uas qee zaum koj tsuas yog tsis pom lawv thiab ceev lawv los ntawm inertia. Tab sis keeb kwm ntawm lub pob yog nthuav heev thiab nplua nuj. Cia wb mus saib qhov no hom clasp.

khawm dab neeg
khawm dab neeg

khawm semantics

Hauv lus Lavxias, lo lus no suav nrog "scarecrow", "pugach", "scare". Qhov no yog vim lub fact tias cov Slavs ntaus nqi tiv thaiv thiab hem muaj nuj nqi rau lub khawm. Tsis tas li ntawd, raws li Dahl phau ntawv txhais lus, lub npe "scarecrow" tau khaws cia ntev ntev hauv cov lus Lavxias. Qhov no yog lub npe ntawm ib qho tshwj xeeb accessory-Tswb, uas tau txuas rau dab tshos los yog dai ntawm ib lub saw. Los ntawm Sanskrit thaum ub "pug" yog "nplua", thiab "vica" yog "rod", "rod", "ntxhi". Thiab nws muab tawm tias lub pob hu ua puffy nplawm, nplawm lossis pug pas nrig. Ntawd yog, tseem muaj kev cuam tshuam.

Los ntawm lus Askiv, "khawm" txhais tau tias "bud" - lub paj tsis qhib. Qhov no qhia tias nyob rau hauv Western Europe me me cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov khaub ncawsua tsis tau ib tug fastening, tab sis ib tug zoo nkauj, zoo nkauj muaj nuj nqi. Raws li kev txhais lus Romanesque, muaj cov lus consonant nrog lub suab ntawm thawj lub suab: "baton", "boton" thiab "botao". Lawv txhais tau hais tias "ntoo", "pierce", "squeeze"

"Kwm" hauv Arabic yog homonym rau sawv thiab suab zoo li "zarra". Tab sis los ntawm ancient Persian txhais lus, lo lus no txhais tau tias "kub". Nws tuaj yeem xav tias nyob rau lub sijhawm thaum ub cov nyees khawm nyob rau hauv cov chaw ua cim lub hnub, thiab yog li ntawd lawv raug cam khwb cia tshwj xeeb los ntawm cov hlau muaj nuj nqis.

Ntau yam

Vim qhov tseeb tias khawm muaj keeb kwm nplua nuj heev, cov khaub ncaws niaj hnub no tau nthuav tawm txhua yam xim thiab duab. Feem ntau yog cov kev xaiv tiaj tiaj tiaj. Tab sis koj tuaj yeem pom cov duab sib npaug, kheej kheej, oval, cylindrical, daim duab peb sab, square, tsiaj-puab thiab lwm cov nyees khawm. Txhua cov duab coj nws tus kheej style, yog li cov neeg tsim qauv thiab cov poj niam xav tau ua tib zoo xaiv cov nyees khawm kom phim cov ntaub thiab cov qauv ntawm cov tsoos tsho.

plhaub nyees khawm
plhaub nyees khawm

Cov ntsiab lus nrog ob lossis plaub los ntawm qhov yog qhov xav tau zoo, tsawg dua nrog peb. Piv txwv li, xws li niam-ntawm-Pearl nyees khawm tau dhau los ua qhov tshwj xeeb ntawm Van Laak txiv neej lub tsho. Fasteners nrog ib lub qhov yog los ntawm (zoo ib yam li cov hlaws tiaj tiaj) lossis muaj lub qhov muag uas lawv tau txuas nrog cov xov. Ntau yam rau ris ntauv txhav tsis yog sewn rau, tab sis ntsia rau ntawm khaub ncaws. Lub pob no muaj ib lub pob zeb ruaj khov thiab lub hau ntab ntab. Tseem muaj ib tug Canadian. Nws muaj ob lub qhov thiab oblong qhov, los ntawmuas txuas nrog daim kab xev.

Dhau li nruj, cov nyees khawm sib txawv hauv qhov loj. Cov fasteners loj thiab tuab yog sewn rau cov ntaub tuab thiab cov ris tsho sab nrauv. Thiab nyias thiab me me niam-ntawm-pearl nyees khawm yog qhov zoo tagnrho rau cov khoom siv hnyav.

Clasp muaj nuj nqi

Cov khaub ncaws no tau hloov pauv hauv keeb kwm. Thiab yog li ntawd, nws tau muab tawm tias cov nyees khawm txawv ntawm lub hom phiaj. Lawv ua tau dab tsi?

1. Utilitarian siv. Ntawd yog, qhov no yog thawj lub luag haujlwm ntawm fastener, fastening cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov khaub ncaws.

2. Cov ntaub ntawv. Los ntawm ib lub pob, koj tuaj yeem txiav txim siab txoj haujlwm lossis xwm txheej.

3. Khawv koob. Txhua yam ntawm talismans thiab amulets tau ua los ntawm cov nyees khawm.

4. Kho kom zoo nkauj. Qee lub sij hawm clasps yog sewn rau kho kom zoo nkauj.

Cia peb mus saib keeb kwm ntawm lub pob thiab qhov kev hloov kho nws tau dhau mus dhau sijhawm.

Ancient clasps

Thaum xub thawj, cov neeg thaum ub tsis siv cov nyees khawm, tab sis khi qhov kawg ntawm lawv cov khaub ncaws hauv pob los yog xov ib thooj rau hauv lub qhov ntawm lwm tus. Tom qab ntawd, lawv twb twv yuav siv txoj siv sia, lacing thiab pins ua los ntawm cov pob txha, sticks, pebbles, cog pos thiab lwm yam ntaub ntawv improvised. Nyob rau hauv ancient Egypt, txoj kev fastening nrog buckles twb nrov. Qhov qub tshaj plaws pom hnub rov qab mus rau 2800 BC.

cov ntsiab lus ntawm khaub ncaws
cov ntsiab lus ntawm khaub ncaws

Tom qab (kwv yees li 2000 BC) cov neeg pib ua cov hlau tsis muaj hlau thiab av nplaum nrog qhov. Tab sis qee qhov piv txwv tau zoo thiab muaj tseeb uas lawv tuaj yeem ua tautxuas nrog xov. Cov nyees khawm ua los ntawm cov plhaub kuj tau pom, uas yog siv los ua cov khoom dai. Zoo kawg li, cov clasps ua los ntawm cov plhaub taum tseem nrov niaj hnub no.

Raws li cov kws tshawb fawb keeb kwm yav dhau los, pom tau los ntawm pob zeb, uas hnub rov qab mus rau 1500 BC, tuaj yeem faib ua haujlwm. Ntawd yog, tib neeg siv lawv rau fastening, thiab tsis zoo li decorations li shells. Lwm cov khoom siv yog ntoo. Tab sis cov khoom ntawm khaub ncaws los ntawm nws tsis pom. Ib qho tuaj yeem xav tias cov nyees khawm ntoo kuj muaj ntau. Tab sis vim yog lawv cov khoom, lawv tsuas rotted thiab tsis ciaj sia rau peb lub sijhawm.

khawm as amulets

Hnub no, ob peb tus neeg nco ntsoov tias cov khaub ncaws hnav yog cov khoom siv yees duab tseem ceeb uas ua rau muaj kev ntshai ntawm kev tawm tsam. Ntawm lawv yog pebbles, hlaws dai, embroideries, tswb thiab pseudo fasteners, uas tau txuas mus rau ib tug saw los yog dab tshos. Piv txwv li, ib lub tsho nrog lub khawm liab loj tau pom nyob rau hauv Novgorod. Nws tsis tau fasten dab tsi thiab yeej tsis ua ib qho ornament. Cov xim liab ntawm Slavs ntshai tawm ntawm dab phem thiab tau nrov. Yog li ntawd, nws tuaj yeem sib cav tias lub pob hauv qhov no yog talisman. Ntawm cov Suav, tej yam yees siv motifs muaj xws li txhua yam ntawm fastener knots, uas lub nto moo tshaj plaws yog "liab nrig."

khawm loj
khawm loj

Tsis tas li ntawd, ib lub pellet, ib lub pob zeb puag ncig los yog ib daim tin tau muab tso rau hauv hollow hlau lossis ntoo nyees khawm, uas, thaum tsiv, ua suab nrov, zoo li lub tswb. Lawv muab tso rau ntawm ib tug saw los yog sewn rau khaub ncaws raws li amulets. NtauRaws li talismans, tiaj tus rounds nrog plaub qhov tau siv. Ntawm no txoj kev ntawm xaws ntawm xws li ib lub pob yog qhov tseem ceeb heev. Piv txwv li, kom nyiam kev nplua nuj, cov stitches yuav tsum tau ua nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm tsab ntawv Z, khaws cia lub heroic noj qab haus huv thiab kev zoo nkauj - nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm tus ntoo khaub lig.

tswv yim tshiab

Nyob rau xyoo pua 16th, Venetian craftsmen pib ua nyees khawm siv cov cuab yeej tshiab. Lub ntsiab lus yog tias daim iav kub tau nrawm nrawm rau hauv dej khov thiab muab tshem tawm. Vim qhov kub sib txawv, ntau cov kab nrib pleb tsim ntawm cov khoom. Lawv tau rov ntim nrog iav, thiab raws li qhov tshwm sim ntawm qhov pom ntawm lub teeb, lub khawm shimmered nrog cov xim ci, zoo li lub pob zeb muaj nuj nqis. Nws yog lub kiv puag ncig tiag tiag!

Ib xyoo tom qab, Florentine craftsmen tuaj nrog mosaic kho kom zoo nkauj rau ib lub pob. Keeb kwm yeej tsis tau pom zoo li no ib qho kev tawg ntawm kev tsim clasp ua ntej. Masters ntawm ib tug nyiaj los yog kub ncej nteg tawm me me daim iav los yog pob zeb nyob rau hauv ib tug chaotic yam, tab sis nws tig tawm zoo nkauj heev. Tom qab ntawd, cov ntawv ci ntau xim tau muab tso rau hauv qab iav saum lub fastener. Thiab twb nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 18th, enamel nyees khawm nrog miniatures luam tawm los ntawm cov neeg ua yeeb yam Watteau thiab Boucher tuaj rau hauv zam. Txij thaum ntawd los, kev kos duab ntawm kev dai khaub ncaws me me tau mus txog qhov kawg.

pearl nyees khawm
pearl nyees khawm

Kaws li daim npav ua lag luam

Nyob rau hauv pre-Petrine Russia, koj tuaj yeem kawm ntau yam txog ib tus neeg los ntawm cov fasteners. Tus naj npawb ntawm cov nyees khawm, lawv cov duab, cov qauv lossis cov cim qhia ntawm lawv hais txog txoj haujlwm, xwm txheej, qhov sib thooj rau lub zog lossisua tsaug. Rau txhua hom khaub ncaws, tus naj npawb ntawm cov nyees khawm yog nruj me ntsis txwv. Piv txwv li, 8, 11, 13-16 fasteners tau sewn rau hauv lub tsho tiv no, thiab 3, 8, 10-13, 19 fasteners tau sewn rau hauv caftan. Cov khoom ntawm cov khoom kuj tseem ceeb. Piv txwv li, cov khaub ncaws ntawm Ivan lub txaus ntshai yuav tsum muaj ib tug golden khawm. Ntxiv mus, ntawm ib lub caftan nws tau nthuav tawm nyob rau hauv tus nqi ntawm 48 daim, thiab nyob rau lwm yam 68 cov fasteners ci ci.

Tub rog qib kuj tseem tuaj yeem ua qhov txawv ntawm cov nyees khawm. Rau cov tub ceev xwm lawv yog nyiaj lossis kub, thiab rau cov tub rog lawv yog tooj liab, tooj liab, tin lossis tooj dag. Cov neeg saib xyuas thiab cov thawj coj ntawm lub clasps muaj lub tsho tiv no ntawm caj npab, uas yog, nrog ib tug dav dawb hau. Thiab cov tub rog, uas tau coj los ntawm cov neeg sawv cev ntawm tsev neeg imperial, hnav cov nyees khawm nrog cov duab ntawm lub kaus mom. Nyob rau yav tom ntej, lub luag haujlwm iconic txuas ntxiv txhim kho. Lub pob tuaj yeem qhia tias tus neeg ua haujlwm yog dab tsi: tub rog, tub ceev xwm, tus kws tshawb fawb, thiab lwm yam. Qee lub cim tseem siv niaj hnub no. Qhov no yog lub pob kub nrog cov thauj tog rau nkoj ntawm cov khaub ncaws tub rog thiab nrog cov ntoo qhib ntoo ntawm cov hav zoov.

Clutches ntawm txiv neej thiab poj niam suits

Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb uas cov nyees khawm tau ntev tau txoj cai ntawm cov txiv neej. Ntxiv mus, ntawm lawv robes, qhov kev nthuav dav me me no tsuas yog pom nyob rau sab pem hauv ntej ntawm sab xis. Qhov tseeb yog cov txiv neej hnav lawv tus kheej thiab nws yooj yim dua rau fasten pem hauv ntej.

Cov poj niam tau pab hnav khaub ncaws los ntawm cov tub txib. Muaj cov khaub ncaws uas muaj ob lub corset thiab txawm tias khawm-down tiab. Nws tuaj yeem xav txog tias cov txheej txheem hnav khaub ncawstuaj yeem siv sijhawm ntev. Yog li hais tias cov tub qhe tsis tig ua ntej lub qhov muag ntawm tus poj niam txhua lub sijhawm, tag nrho cov fasteners ntawm cov ris tsho tau muab tso rau tom qab. Thiab lawv tau sewn ntawm sab laug. Qhov no tau piav qhia los ntawm qhov tseeb tias nws yooj yim dua rau tus tub qhe kom ceev nws, uas txhais tau hais tias tus tswv tsev tuaj yeem hnav sai dua.

Tom qab ntawd, cov ntxhais pib hnav lawv tus kheej, tab sis, xav tsis thoob, qhov sib txawv ntawm qhov chaw ntawm cov fasteners tau muaj sia nyob mus txog niaj hnub no. Thov nco ntsoov tias cov nyees khawm ntawm cov txiv neej lub tsho yog nyob rau sab xis, thiab ntawm cov poj niam - sab laug.

khawm golden
khawm golden

khawm li dais

Tom qab ntawd, fasteners hauv cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws pib ua tsis tau tsuas yog kev siv hluav taws xob xwb, tab sis kuj yog ib qho zoo nkauj. Thaum ntawd yog thaum lub "khawm boom" tshwm sim. Cov ntxhais sim ua kom zoo nkauj tag nrho lawv cov khaub ncaws nrog lub voj voog me me. Thiab txij li thaum ntawd tag nrho cov fittings yog hlau, cov neeg pluag fashionistas yuav tsum rub nws mus rau ib tug ci rau teev. Nov yog li cas cov ntaub npog npog tau yug los.

Tom qab ntawd cov nyees khawm loj thiab kim tau nrov. Lawv tau ua los ntawm cov nyiaj, kub, plooj (porcelain) thiab dai kom zoo nkauj nrog cov pob zeb zoo nkauj. Xws li ib tug dowry tau txais qub txeeg qub tes thiab hloov ntawm ib tug hnav khaub ncaws mus rau lwm tus. Thiab tsis xav tsis thoob, vim cov khaub ncaws lawv tus kheej tuaj yeem raug nqi plaub txhiab, thiab cov nyees khawm - yim.

Ntawm nyees khawm

Nyob rau xyoo pua 19th, cov khoom siv tes ua tsis tau ua lawm, tag nrho cov txheej txheem tau hloov kho. Yog li ntawd, cov nyees khawm tau poob rau hauv tus nqi thiab tau dhau los ua muaj rau cov neeg siv khoom. Thiab nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 20th, yas kis thoob plaws ntiaj teb. Los ntawm nws ntau hom, nws muaj peev xwm ua tau txhua yam thiab tsim cov curly zoo. KujNtawm cov ntxhais, lub khawm-down denim tiab tau ua nrov. Nws yog nrog nws uas tshwj xeeb rivet fasteners tuaj rau hauv zam.

Hnub no, cov nyees khawm feem ntau pom ua cov fasteners thiab kho kom zoo nkauj ntawm lub tsho, tsho loj, kaus mom, swimsuits thiab lwm yam khaub ncaws. Ntxiv mus, lawv tau pib siv los ua cov khoom siv rau kev muaj tswv yim. Lawv kho cov khau ballet, vases, siv tawv, txhua yam khoom siv tes ua, lawv tsim cov paj ntaub thiab txawm tias cov duab kos.

Ntiaj teb qhov tseeb

Tus Vaj Ntxwv Fab Kis Fab Kis Francis muaj lub tsho nplua nuj tshaj plaws. Ntau tshaj 13.5 txhiab daim tau sewn rau nws

Lub pob me me tau dhau los ua tus yam ntxwv ntawm lub cev ntawm tus txiv neej lub tsho. Nws tau sewn rau ua rau nws tsis yooj yim rau cov tub rog los so lawv lub tes tsho

khawm me
khawm me

Cov nyees khawm ntawm cov khaub ncaws ntawm Napoleonic pab tub rog tau dhau los ua qhov tsis ntseeg siab tshaj plaws. Lawv tau ua los ntawm txhuas thiab tsuas yog poob sib nrug hauv qhov txias txias

Louis XIV siv ntau tshaj li rau lab daus las rau fasteners hauv nws lub neej tag nrho. Nws hlub lawv heev

Nyob hauv tebchaws Askiv, tau muaj kev lig kev cai ntev los khaws cov nyees khawm zoo nkauj tshaj plaws ntawm kab nuv ntses lossis xov. Thaum muaj 999 leej ntxhais yuav nrhiav tau nws ib nrab

Hmoov tsis zoo, keeb kwm tsis tau khaws cia lub npe ntawm tus neeg tsim cov nyees khawm. Txawm hais tias nws, raws li tus neeg tsim khoom ntawm lub log, twv yuav raug hu tsim nyog ib lub monument. Lub sij hawm hloov, thiab fasteners li khaub ncaws connectors nyob rau hauv keeb kwm yav dhau. Lawv twb tau hloov los ntawm kev xaiv yooj yim dua: zippers thiab Velcro. Txawm hais tias qee zaum qhov no tsis raug cai. Tom qab tag nrho, cov nyees khawm yog yooj yim los hloov yog tias lawv tawm los yogKuv tsuas yog xav hloov kuv cov khaub ncaws.

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